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MY CURRENT FAVOURITES 💕 HOME, CLEANING, BEAUTY \u0026 MORE! Cultivahion are one of the most delicious and tchniques of berry crops. Their Quenching flavored beverages aroma and Raspbwrry flavor make raspberries a favorite of home gardeners, and Oregon is a great place to grow them. Raspberries are caneberries, a group which also includes blackberries and raspberry-blackberry hybrids. Caneberry plants produce fruit on hard, woody stems called canes. Raspberries and blackberries can be distinguished by their fruit. Both produce a fruit made up of many individual sections, or drupelets Figure 1A—C.Raspberry cultivation techniques -
Please consult Fruit Crop Protection Guide for Commercial Growers for further information on control practices and chemical recommendations for insects, diseases, and weeds.
Irrigation for commercial raspberry production in Manitoba is essential. There are many types of irrigation systems available. However, trickle irrigation is the most effective and economical method. However, it does not provide for frost control or crop cooling but does have the benefit of reducing disease spread.
The best time to irrigate is during establishment of the planting and at fruiting time. The greatest increase in berry weight occurs 7 to 10 days before it is ripe and is the time when adequate moisture levels are most critical.
The soil should be soaked to a depth of 25cm. Lighter soils may absorb more than 50mm, while heavy soils require only 25mm at a time. Pruning is an important consideration in raspberry production because it helps to maintain a desired row width, limit cane density, tip or remove the top portion of the cane, remove spent fruiting canes, and remove weak, damaged, and diseased canes.
Plants which do not receive proper pruning will have a considerably lower useful life expectancy. The pruning process should start in the first years and continue on a yearly basis more frequently if required by disease outbreak or plant damage and become more substantive as the crop matures at years.
Renovation is the process of mowing and narrowing rows after harvest to remove diseased or insect damaged plants, provide space and accessibility for harvest, and stimulate renewed growth.
Avoid renovating plantings in the establishment year. Raspberries are generally ready for harvest in July or August. The fruit is considered ready for harvest when ripe because no further ripening occurs after the berry is picked. The decision to harvest also depends on the end-use of the fruit.
For fresh markets the grower should harvest the fruit at the beginning of the harvest season. For processing the fruit should be harvested at the end of the season. The typical harvest interval is generally four weeks.
The fruit should be picked two or three times a week during its peak every day during hot dry weather. Raspberry harvesting at present is primarily done as a U-Pick operation with some growers offering pre-picked berries.
This method can be time consuming for the grower, may become market saturated and presents difficulties with consistency of product ripeness, operational size and facility layout, legal implication and local market conditions.
However, this method eliminates the need for harvesting, picking staff, containers, handling and grading facilities, and storing or shipping equipment.
Mechanized harvesting is carried out when the raspberries are utilized for processing or freezing. These harvesters are generally very expensive due to their uniqueness and limited availability. The use of mechanical harvesters is therefore restricted to operations of 5 acres or more due to the economies of scale and the high investment in equipment.
Control of insects and diseases are major problems associated with mechanically harvested fruit. At present, very few mechanical harvesters are used on the Prairies. Medium bright red berries. Heritage Primocane Very good to good Large, bright red, super-sweet berries on vigorous, upright canes.
Killarney Floricane Very good to good So productive it will weigh down the upright canes. Firm, sweet fruit. Disease resistant.
Latham UMN variety Floricane Very good to good Vigorous plants produce lots of large, sweet, firm, bright red berries. Nova Floricane Very good to good Very hardy plant with fewer thorns.
Medium size, firm, bright red berries with a good, slightly tart flavor. Polana Primocane Good Large, firm berries with good flavor.
Variety Color Fruiting type Hardiness zone 4 to zone 3 Description Anne Yellow Primocane Good to fair Widely adapted plants produce pale, yellow, very sweet, mild berries.
Heat tolerant. Black Hawk Black Floricane Fair to poor Vigorous plants produce lots of rich, sweet, firm black raspberries.
Disease resistant and heat tolerant. Bristol Black Floricane Fair to poor Vigorous, upright canes produce large clusters of firm black raspberries. Excellent flavor. Fallgold Yellow Primocane Very good to good Produces large, golden, firm, sweet berries.
Very hardy. Honeyqueen Yellow Floricane Good to fair Honey-sweet, peach colored soft berries are produced on arched, spiny canes. Royalty Purple Floricane Fair to poor Vigorous plants are heavy producers. Pick red for bright raspberry flavor, or purple for sweet, rich flavor.
Planting Early spring is the best time to plant raspberries. Till the soil well before planting. This video describes how to plant a row of raspberries and build a simple wire trellis. Planting and caring for new plants. Watering and support. Trellising raspberry plants No matter what kind of trellis you design for your raspberries, the goal is simple: Keep the canes and fruit off the ground and leave enough walking space on each side for harvest.
How to keep your raspberries healthy and productive. Fertilizer, mulch and weeding Fertilizer and mulch Raspberry plants are heavy feeders and generally need to be fertilized.
On established plantings, apply the same rate for continued plant nutrition. Weeding Keep the area around the base of raspberry plants free of weeds to prevent them having to compete for water and nutrients.
Remove weeds early and often. A layer of mulch will help control weeds. Pruning Raspberries grow vigorously and need annual pruning. Summer-bearing red and yellow raspberries After the last harvest, cut all canes that have produced fruit to ground level and remove them.
Thin primocanes to 4 to 5 sturdy canes per foot of row. In areas where winter injury is common, you may delay thinning the primocanes until the following spring, when you will be able to tell which canes have survived.
Primocane growth may be somewhat reduced under this delayed-thinning method, due to competition among new canes. Before growth starts in spring, cut the canes to about 12 inches above the support.
Fall-bearing raspberries If only a fall crop is desired, cut all canes off at the base before growth begins in spring. Black and purple raspberries When primocanes are between 24 to 30 inches in height, pinch out the tip of each shoot to induce branching.
This will make the fruit easier to pick and increase production. After harvest, cut down all canes that bore fruit to ground level. Before growth begins the following spring, cut back all side branches so they are 12 to 18 inches long.
Select 4 to 5 canes per hill, and prune out the rest. Tie these canes to the support system. Harvest and storage. Managing pests and diseases Keeping plants healthy and well-cared-for is the best strategy for preventing a host of issues.
Find help identifying common pest problems: Use the online diagnostic tools What insect is this? and What's wrong with my plant? Send a sample to the UMN Plant Disease Diagnostic Clinic. Ask a Master Gardener allows you to share pictures and get advice.
Wildlife Rabbits are partial to raspberry canes in winter and will eat them, thorns and all, right down to the ground or the snow line. Diseases and other challenges. Pest management schedule for raspberries For new raspberry patches What to do When to do it Locate site where the raspberries will be planted.
Kill old raspberries or wild raspberries near the proposed site. Take soil for pH and nutrient testing. Kill all perennial weeds, especially quack grass and thistle. Summer or fall before planting Order or buy plants from an established nursery that sells plants that have been certified virus-free.
Winter Plant raspberries. Spring Control annual weeds with hoeing or mulching. Choose row width and plant grass between rows. What to do When to do it Mow canes for fall bearing raspberries. Mow summer-bearing raspberries producing in alternate years.
Do not mow summer-bearing canes if a crop is desired that summer. Early spring If spur blight, cane blight, or anthracnose have been a serious problem in the previous year, apply copper to dormant canes. Scout dormant or recently sprouted canes for cane borers.
Prune and remove any infested canes. May Prune dead canes on summer-bearing plants after leaves have sprouted. Cut the tops of canes that died from either winter injury or cane borer. Cut below the gall on canes with cane borer. If spur blight, cane blight or anthracnose have been a serious problem in the previous year and weather conditions are consistently wet, apply fungicides to protect young primocanes.
Mid May to early June Place traps for spotted wing Drosophila and check the traps regularly throughout the growing season. Check leaves regularly for Japanese beetle. Remove Japanese beetles as they land on raspberry leaves when it is practical.
Mid June to August Check leaves for raspberry sawfly. Remove green larvae when they appear. If spotted wing Drosophila is present, harvest ripe berries, properly dispose of infested fruit and apply insecticides.
Late June through September Remove dying floricanes to improve air movement through the bed and reduce spread of fungal cane blights. Late July If gray mold has been a problem in past years, and weather is favorable for disease development, spray fungicides on fall-bearing raspberries during bloom.
Remove berries with gray mold to prevent the disease from spreading to ripening berries. Monitor for fruit-eating beetles in fall-bearing raspberries by walking rows. Properly dispose of any overripe or rotting berries. August Scout for spur blight on mature primocanes. Remove any canes showing symptoms of disease.
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Very large, firm, flavorful berries. To keep this disease to a minimum, choose disease resistant varieties, leave at least 2 feet of space between plants to allow for good air flow, and prune off old fruiting canes after the last harvest.
And cleaning up any fallen fruits and dead leaves around the plants will help control both mildew and raspberry rust, a disease that produces rusty dots on the leaves.
Harvest raspberries by gently tugging off the berries. You might see a misshapen raspberry here and there; a berry that is drawn up on one side or another. You might consider keeping mason bees , which emerge earlier than honeybees and do a great job at pollinating all sorts of plants, even in cool weather.
Raspberries are one of the easiest, most rewarding, and most productive fruits you can grow at home. The first step in growing raspberries is choosing the right type for you. There are two different categories of raspberries: Summer-bearing and fall-bearing also called everbearing.
Summer-bearing plants produce one big crop of fruits in late summer. Fall-bearing plants produce two crops a year: one in early autumn and a smaller crop early the next summer. In general, red raspberries are stronger, hardier, and more productive than the black and yellow raspberry plants.
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Sports etiquette and sportsmanship for youth athletes Raspbdrry is a general guide Healthy metabolism tips raspberry management based upon plant and pest development. Raspberyr suggested timing Raspberrry vary according to raspberry tcehniques, weather and location. Cultovation Raspberry cultivation techniques are for established plantings except where otherwise noted. With good soil, climatic and management conditions, raspberry plantings can remain productive for 10 or more years. Raspberries grow best on loam or sandy-loam soils that are 60 to cm 2 to 4 ft deep and well-drained. A soil pH of 5. Avoid planting on poorly drained, heavy soils or soils with a hardpan that will prevent good drainage.Raspberry cultivation techniques -
Do not apply within 30 days of harvest. Maximum two applications per year. When using insecticides select ones that have the least impact on beneficial insects whenever possible. Most insecticides are toxic to bees.
Avoid applying insecticides during the blossom period. If it is absolutely necessary to apply them during this period, notify beekeepers in the area.
Evening applications are less dangerous than daytime applications. See weevil and caterpillar control below for control recommendations.
Aphids rarely do any direct damage to raspberries but are a concern as carriers of virus diseases and contaminants in machine harvested fruit. They are a periodic problem on the Meeker and other susceptible varieties.
The raspberry aphid and a few other species attack raspberries. Aphids are found in colonies on new shoot growth, buds, undersides of leaves, and near flower and fruit clusters. Adult aphids are small 2 to 3 mm and vary in colour from pale yellow, green, to red.
As colonies become crowded, winged forms appear. The immature stages resemble small wingless adults. Aphids overwinter as eggs on plants. Under coastal conditions eggs hatch about May.
The nymphs feed on blossoms, then growing shoots and leaves. There are several generations during the spring and summer. In the fall, winged forms disperse and lay eggs on the overwintering host plants. Early detection is important for effective, economical control.
Inspect growing tips weekly from before bloom to harvest. Inspect several sites, especially in the upwind margins of the planting where wind blown aphids are most likely to occur.
Aphids are often controlled by a number of native predators and parasites including ladybugs, lacewings, and syrphid larvae. If chemicals are needed for other pests, pesticides that will have the least impact on the beneficial insects should be used.
varieties such as Chemainus, Malahat and Rudi have been selected for aphid resistance. However, in recent years resistance-breaking strains of the raspberry aphid have been detected in B.
However, if monitoring shows concerning levels of aphids in the field, there are a number of chemicals registered for use against aphids on raspberries. This is seldom a serious pest. Maggots inside the cane girdle the shoots causing them to wilt and die from the point of girdling.
The adult is a small fly that is rarely noticed. The maggot is creamy white and reaches about 0. There is one generation a year. The maggot overwinters in the shoot.
In the spring it pupates and turns into an adult fly. The fly lays a single egg on unopened leaves at the tip of a new shoot.
The egg hatches within a week, and the resulting maggot bores about 15 cm down inside the shoot, then turns outward and girdles it, leaving a bluish ring. The shoot droops at this point, then shrivels and dries up.
Caterpillars may reduce plant health and yield by feeding on foliage, buds and fruit, but usually the damage is not significant.
They can also be a contamination problem at harvest, especially the oblique banded leafroller. There are more than 25 species of caterpillars that may attack raspberry plants at some time during the growing season. Only a few of them are major pests.
In recent years, the oblique banded leafroller has been the major early season pest. This is a pale to medium green worm with a brown to black head. It grows to about 2. Climbing cutworms such as variegated cutworm, Bertha armyworm, brown fruitworm, speckled green fruitworm, and alfalfa looper may also be early and mid season pests.
Oblique banded leafrollers overwinter as young larvae, often between canes. They begin feeding on new leaves and buds, and rolling leaves, in April. This feeding does not usually cause significant damage to the plants.
The caterpillars feed until late May or early June, then pupate and emerge as moths. The moths mate and lay eggs on leaves and canes. The second generation leafrollers that hatch from these eggs can contaminate harvested berries in July and August. Variegated cutworms may be present as the buds begin to swell and break in late March to early April, when they start feeding on the buds and new growth.
It is helpful to work with an integrated pest management IPM consultant when monitoring for caterpillar pests. Monitor for caterpillars by looking for feeding damage on the shoot tips and rolled leaves, starting in April.
Check 4 to 5 well-distributed sites in each field. At each site, select 20 plants to inspect. Keep records of date, field, and location for each inspection. Monitor every two weeks in April and May.
Start watching for cutworms in late March to early April. They are active at night so are best detected in the evening by placing a beating tray under the foliage and shaking the plant gently.
Bacillus thuringiensis var. kurstaki Bt or Btk is a soil bacteria that kills leafroller and spanworm caterpillars when they eat it. Caterpillars stop feeding within hours and die within a couple of days. Trichogramma minutum is a tiny wasp which searches for eggs of caterpillar pests and lays its own eggs in them.
Inside the pest egg, the immature wasp kills the developing caterpillar and feeds on it for days before it emerges, mates and begins searching for more pest eggs. These tiny parasitoids are produced commercially and have been under investigation for several years for control of Oblique banded leafroller the most prevalent contaminant in raspberry.
This is often sufficient to put the field below a spray threshold for a caterpillar clean-up spray. Field experience indicates that climbing cutworms bertha armyworm are also controlled by T.
minutum if the moths are flying in June when the T. minutum are released. minutum must be present in field from the first pheromone trap catch of oblique banded leafroller moths until the moth flight is complete 3 to 5 weeks, June to early July.
minutum should be applied on a weekly basis either by setting out T. Setting out parasitized eggs on cards is more labour intensive, but parasitoid survival should be better than broadcast application.
It distributes T. minutum by puffing out a mixture of parasitized-eggs and fine vermiculite into an air and water stream every 3 m. This service is provided by custom applicators in the Fraser Valley and has been used successfully on several raspberry farms.
This technique is best used within an IPM program using the services of a pest management consultant. Contact BCAGRI for further information. This insect affects all cane fruits including raspberry, Himalaya and cutleaf blackberry, loganberry, boysenberry, thimble berry and salmonbterry.
Larvae girdle new canes causing galls at the base. These weakened canes often break off during tying in the spring. Large larvae tunnel in the fleshy part of the root, further reducing the vigour of canes.
The day flying adult is a clear-winged moth resembling a yellow jacket wasp in color and size. The larvae are white with brown heads and are found in tunnels inside the cane or root. This insect has a two year life cycle. The eggs are laid in August and September on the undersides of leaves near the edges.
The young larvae crawl down the canes and spend the first winter in a cell on the cane near the soil. The next spring they become active and start to girdle the new canes.
Later they bore into the base of the cane and cause swellings at or below the soil surface. They spend the second winter in the tunnels and feed from spring until June or July when they pupate.
Adult moths emerge beginning in late July. Watch for canes that break off when tying up in the spring. Immediately after harvest or when setting canes on the wires, prune out loose canes and those with galls at the base.
Cut back close to the crown. Unopened leaves on primocanes and fruiting laterals turn black and fail to open or become distorted, twisted, kinked, or creased as they attempt to expand. Small, milky coloured legless larvae, 1 mm wide and mm long, are found within unopened leaves.
Several can be present in an infested bud. Adults are small delicate flies which are rarely seen. Adults emerge in the spring and lay eggs in unopened leaves. Larvae feed within the growing tips for about four weeks, and then drop to the soil to pupate.
New adults emerge and lay eggs. There appears to be approximately three overlapping generations per year in south western B. Larvae can be observed from mid May through late August. In late summer larvae drop to the soil and overwinter as mature larvae or pupae.
Look for damage on growing tips of primocanes and fruiting laterals in early May and through the summer. Damage on opening leaves can be seen all season, and tends to build up and spread through the field with each successive generation.
It is not likely that this pest will reach levels high enough to affect yield as leaf midge is considered a minor pest in Europe. However, it is relatively new to B. If midge is present in fields it should be monitored each year to determine if population and subsequent damage is increasing. There are no chemicals specifically registered for midge, however, broad-spectrum insecticides used for raspberry fruit worm, leafhoppers or leafrollers may give some control of leaf midge.
Midges are generally difficult to control with pesticides because the larvae are protected by leaves and the generations are overlapping. The adult beetles cause some reduction in yield by feeding on unfolding leaves and blossom clusters.
The larvae feed within flowers and then burrow between the core and the flesh of the berries. They can be a serious contamination problem at harvest.
The small 2 to 3 mm , yellowish-brown beetles of the western raspberry fruitworm are somewhat flattened and covered with short hairs. Larvae are pale yellow, 3 to 4 mm long, and have short legs. Adult beetles overwinter in the soil, emerging from late April to early May.
They feed on new leaves, blossoms and berries, and lay eggs which hatch into whitish-yellow larvae. These enter the blossoms and young berries, some feeding until harvest.
Most larvae mature, leave the berry and drop to the ground where they enter the soil and pupate. Adults form in late summer and overwinter.
Watch for damage to unfolding leaves and developing flower buds. A beating tray can be used to monitor adult fruitworm activity before and during bloom. Work in Washington has shown that beetles are attracted to non-ultraviolet white sticky traps.
Traps such as the Rebell R Bianco are effective for monitoring beetle flight activity. Locate traps along field edges near adjacent raspberry fields or areas of alternate Rubus hosts e. blackberry, thimbleberry. However, there are no threshold levels established for determining if sprays are required.
The best time to control this insect is just prior to bloom and before it begins to lay eggs. If monitoring shows concerning levels of fruitworm beetles, spray when blossom bud clusters separate and again if required just prior to blossom opening.
Chemical control options are limited. Leafhoppers are not usually a serious pest except on blackberry and loganberry. Both nymphs and adults feed on the underside of leaves. They suck sap from the leaves, causing whitish spots on the upper surfaces. Heavy infestations result in mottled leaves which can wither and curl in hot weather.
Plants lack vigour, and the berries can be small and often sticky from honeydew secreted by the leafhoppers. A black mould can develop on the honeydew.
The nymphs are small, pale white and quick moving when disturbed. Adults are slender and about 3 mm long with folded wings. They vary in colour from pale white to brownish-green. There are two generations each year. Most of the population overwinters as eggs laid under the bark of the canes.
First generation nymphs hatch in early May and feed for three or four weeks on the undersides of leaves before becoming winged adults.
These adults lay eggs in the leaves and petioles from late June until early September. Second generation nymphs appear in late July and early August, and mature in late August and early September.
These adults lay the overwintering eggs. If monitoring shows concerning levels of leafhoppers, apply when wingpads are present but before adults fly:. Sawflies occur sporadically and are seldom a serious pest.
Vigorous raspberry plants are not seriously damaged by sawfly larvae unless they are in outbreak numbers. Larvae feed on the leaves, usually between the veins, causing large elongated holes or even completely skeletonized leaves.
Adults are sawflies which are thick-waisted wasps with four clear wings. They are about 6 mm long, black with yellow and reddish markings. Larvae are pale green caterpillars with many legs and grow to about 13 mm long.
Mature larvae overwinter in a cocoon in the soil. These pupate in the spring and adult sawflies appear in May and June.
They lay their eggs within the leaf tissue. Larvae feed on leaves throughout the summer, even into November. Mature larvae drop to the ground where they bury themselves and spin cocoons in which they overwinter.
Female flies lay eggs under the skin of ripe fruit shortly before harvest. Larvae hatch and begin to feed within the fruit, causing softening in the area of feeding.
There can be several larvae in a fruit, which hastens softening and fruit collapse. Holes the size of pin pricks are evident within the soft areas of infested blueberries.
The females do not have spots or leg bands. Females have saw-like egg-laying organs ovipositors that are used to cut into fruit skin.
Ovipositors are easier to see when extended. A hand-lens or dissecting microscope is needed to identify ovipositor. Spotted Wing Drosophila overwinter as adult flies.
In the spring the flies become active. They feed on nectar from flowering plants and lay eggs in ripening fruit. Based on climate model predictions, there could be up to 5 generations per year in B. Generations overlap as flies are relatively long-lived, particularly at temperatures of 20°C and cooler.
Based on Japanese literature, a female can lay eggs for days, with eggs laid per day, and average eggs per female. Eggs hatch in hours, larvae mature in days, and pupae reside in fruit or outside of fruit for days.
Spotted Wing Drosophila populations tend to be high following a mild winter and a warm, wet spring. Females reproduce at temperatures from 14°C to 28°C, with optimal reproduction at 22°C.
Female fertility increases with relative humidity. Flies can be monitored with traps baited with apple cider vinegar, yeast solution or a commercial lure. Traps are most useful as a monitoring tool early in the season.
Traps are not sensitive enough to be used a predictive monitoring method once fruit starts to ripen. Place traps at the green fruit stage. Hang traps in the plant canopy in a shady location. Check traps at least once per week and examine the bait for the Spotted Wing Drosophila adults.
Use a hand lens or microscope to see the female ovipositor. Replace the bait solution each week. Larvae in the fruit can be detected through a salt water test.
Collect ripe, marketable fruit and place in a shallow tray. Wait 15 minutes and examine the solution. Spotted Wing Drosophila larvae will float to the surface. Use a hand lens and good lighting to detect small larvae. Raspberries are one of the most attractive fruits to Spotted Wing Drosophila.
Do not allow raspberries to become overripe. Shorten picking intervals where possible and pick early, clean and often to maintain fruit quality and reduce population growth. Spotted Wing Drosophila prefer humid areas of the field. Promote air flow through the field by managing weeds and promptly fixing irrigation leaks.
Cool fruit immediately after harvest. Keep equipment and processing areas free of old fruit. Think beyond the borders of your farm and be aware of host plants in adjacent fields. Encourage neighbours to also manage for this pest. To date, there are no commercially available biological controls for Spotted wing drosophila.
Two parasitoids native to Asia have been found in British Columbia and research is underway to determine their impact on Spotted wing drosophila populations.
Chemical control will be required when berries begin to ripen. Raspberry, blackberry, strawberry, and other plants in the family Rosaceae. Wild hosts include salmonberry, thimbleberry, Himalayan blackberry and wild roses.
The strawberry blossom weevil is native to Europe, Asia, and North Africa. The first established population in North America has been found in the Fraser Valley. Surveys in have shown that it has established on wild and cultivated hosts throughout the Fraser Valley.
The adult weevils lay eggs in developing flower buds and sever the flower stalks, resulting in aborted flower buds and reduced yield. The larvae develop inside the aborted buds. There is usually only one egg laid per flower.
Adult weevils are small 2. Larvae are crescent shaped, white with a pale orange head capsule, mm long, and found inside the dead buds. Pupae are pale, creamy white and also found within the dead buds. Adult weevils overwinter on the ground in the leaf litter. They become active in raspberry and strawberry fields in April and May.
They lay their eggs in the closed buds, prior to bloom. Larvae develop inside the damaged buds. There is one generation per year. Staggered emergence of the following generation of adults means that adult weevils can be found from April to late September.
Research is underway to evaluate pheromone traps as a monitoring tool. Parasitoids in the genus Pteromalus have been found emerging from strawberry blossom weevil-infested buds. Research is underway to better understand the potential of parasitoids to control this pest.
Because the strawberry blossom weevil is a new pest in Canada, there are no pesticides registered for pre-bloom control. Pre-bloom sprays for other weevils or raspberry fruitworm beetles may provide some control. Two-spotted spider mites cause damage to the leaves, particularly during prolonged warm periods.
They usually feed on the lower leaf surface, resulting in a whitish flecking on the upper surface. Heavy infestations can result in leaves drying up and dropping off. Two-spotted spider mites are very tiny.
From April to October, they are pale yellow to green, and females have two large black spots on the back and sides of the body. Orange overwintering females appear in late September and October.
Fine silk webbing is typically present on the underside of the leaves infested with mites. In March, the spider mites begin feeding and egg-laying on the newly emerging leaves. Eggs hatch in one to two weeks and the immature mites become reproductive adults in another one to three weeks.
Mites develop faster at higher temperatures so more generations occur and numbers may increase rapidly in hot weather, particularly if native predators have been eliminated by broad-spectrum insecticides.
Start inspecting leaves for spider mites and mite predators in early May. Sample at least every two weeks during May and June. White speckling is a sign of mite feeding. Turn over leaves with these symptoms and examine for mites and mite predators.
Use a 10 X power hand lens. Sample from four well-distributed sites per field and inspecting 10 leaflets at each site.
Keep records of the date, field area and sampling results for each inspection. Include spider mites and mite predators. No threshold levels are established for applying control sprays; however, strawberry thresholds provide some guidelines see Strawberry section in this guide.
Field history and ratio of predators to pest mites needs to be considered. The relatively lesser effect of mites on raspberries than on strawberries means that greater reliance can be placed on natural controls such as predatory mites Amblyseius fallacis and beetles Stethorus punctillum.
If these biological control agents are present in sufficient numbers, they should adequately control spider mites. If predators are not present due to sprays or because the planting is new, Amblyseius and Stethorus can be purchased and introduced.
Apply higher rates on fields with a history of high spider mite populations. Release predators in new fields when leaves are growing and touching between the canes. To decrease the number of predators required, they can be released into the mite "hotspots," instead of applied to the whole field.
Contact your crop consultant, supplier or BCAGRI for details on releasing biological control agents. If monitoring shows concerning levels of spider mites, spray one of the following. Alternate between the recommended products below to prevent mite resistance from developing.
Raspberries adjacent to strawberries or wooded areas may be damaged by root weevils. The main damage is caused very early in the spring by adult clay coloured weevils feeding on the unopened buds. Damage is often mistaken for winter injury.
Adult black vine weevils and obscure weevils which emerge in June can be serious contaminants in machine-harvested fruit.
The larvae grubs feed on the roots and weaken cane growth. Adults of the clay coloured weevil and other species feed on raspberry buds in the early spring.
All species are similar in habits and appearance. Adults are flightless, hard-shelled, and have long, downward curved shouts and elbowed antennae.
Adults start to emerge from the soil in the early spring and most have emerged by mid-June. The adults climb the canes at night to feed on the buds and new laterals. Because they are flightless, they spread relatively slowly in a raspberry field. Eggs are laid by mid-July and hatch into grubs that feed on the roots through the fall, winter and spring.
Start inspecting the canes in March for signs of damage to the buds and new laterals leaf flagging and notching caused by clay coloured weevils.
Adult weevils feed at night and usually return to the trash at the base of the plant in the day. Weevils may stay in the foliage on cool, cloudy days especially if the foliage is dense.
Adult weevils can be detected in the evening by placing a beating tray under the foliage and shaking the plant gently. Monitor for black vine weevils and obscure weevils in June and July in the same fashion.
Record weevil numbers for each inspection. Ground beetles Carabids feed on weevil grubs, pupae and adults. The contribution they make to control has not been determined, but they should be encouraged. Weevil sprays can kill predatory mites resulting in increased two-spotted mite populations.
If sprays are applied, monitor for mites and be prepared to control if necessary. Make sure that the damage is caused by weevils as buds can be damaged from other factors such as frost. Check with a crop consultant or the BCAGRI, if uncertain.
Apply insecticide sprays for adult weevils before egg laying starts. For clay coloured weevils spray in early spring when damage to buds and new shoots is first observed. For black vine and obscure weevils, sprays should be applied after weevil emergence in June just before first harvest.
Apply sprays in the evening, after a warm, sunny day. Under these conditions, the weevils will be active and moving up the canes to the foliage and will be exposed to and killed by foliar sprays. Wireworms bore into raspberry crowns and destroy them.
In heavy infestations, they feed on established plants and greatly reduce the yield, and weaken the plants. Wireworms are seldom a problem, but can cause heavy plant losses to raspberry plantings following sod.
Plan for control in field preparation for new plantings. These are occasionally a pest on raspberries and may be a contaminant when harvesting in wet conditions. Slugs are slow-moving, soft-bodied, slimy, legless creatures. They are black, grey, brown or olive green in colour, and do not have a shell.
Slugs are 3 to 4 mm when hatched and grow to 10 cm in length. Snails have a protective shell. The shell can be up to 2 cm in diameter and usually has alternating yellow and brown concentric rings.
Control weeds and keep cover crops mowed as tall grasses and weeds provide protection and may attract these pests. If present in large numbers, control snails or slugs in the spring before they climb into the plants.
When the pests are active and conditions dry, apply in the evening at the base of plants or to the headlands. This disease may cause considerable cane damage in some years, especially if weather remains wet into late spring.
Infections that occur early in the season are more damaging than those that occur later. Uneven berry ripening may result from infected canes. The first symptom is small, purplish circular patches on the cane. As the patches enlarge, the central portion takes on a greyish colour and becomes sunken and cracked.
Margins become raised and purplish. The damaged patches are often so close together that they merge, forming large, irregular areas. Canes can eventually become girdled and die. Anthracnose is caused by a fungus. The disease spreads by spores produced in the small black bodies which form in the grey patches in the fall.
In the spring, splashing rain carries the spores to new shoots, leaves or fruit, where infection takes place. Watch for sunken grey areas with purple raised margins on canes during late spring. The cane is most commonly infected from 15 to 75 cm above the ground.
Prune out infected canes. Where anthracnose has been a problem, apply one of the following. Lime sulfur, used to control spur blight, cane blight and yellow rust, will also control Anthracnose. Bacterial blight can occur at two periods during the year. In the spring, blight symptoms appear as a sudden wilting and blackening of new shoots, cane tips, laterals and leaves.
This type of damage is often associated with temperatures just above 0°C and is usually not a problem after mid-May. The most serious phase of the disease is believed to occur in the fall in fields that are actively growing later than normal.
These fields seem to be susceptible to infection which shows as dead buds and black streaking of the cambium layer under the bark. This damage is usually not noticed until spring and can be confused with injury due to spur blight or winter injury.
The bacterium survives on leaf surfaces, in healthy buds and on weeds. It may be spread by splashing rain, wind, insects and infected planting stock. Check developing laterals and young shoots for symptoms. Where fall conditions may have promoted the development of blight, inspect buds for damage.
Look for black streaking under the bark near the buds. Avoid late growth due to excessive soil nitrogen, summer drought followed by resumption of growth with fall rains, or topping of canes too early in the fall. Bordeaux Mixture Apply a second spray in the fall before rains start.
Thoroughly wet the canes. See General Pest Section for mixing directions; or. Begin protection at the bud-bursting stage. Apply in fast drying conditions to minimize the risk of plant damage. Repeat at day intervals until three sprays have been applied.
Thoroughly wet canes at each treatment. Do not re-enter treated fields within 48 hours of application. Do not apply within 2 days of harvest. Caution: Do not use bluestone or copper sulphate alone as it washes off readily and may cause plant injury.
Copper tolerant strains of this bacterium have been detected from blueberry. No satisfactory chemical control for the fall-winter infection period has been determined.
The following may be beneficial:. Apply spray before fall rains start about October. Thoroughly wet the canes and apply in fast drying conditions. Cueva Copper octanoate 1.
Apply at the start of flowering and continue every 7 to 10 days. Do not apply within 1 day of harvest, or. Serenade Opti QST strain-Bacillus subtilis at 0. Apply before fall rains and again during dormancy before spring. Serenade may be applied up to and including the day of harvest.
Note: Serenade is a bacterial-based biofungicide. It is approved for organic production. Botrytis cane wilt can be very destructive during wet seasons and in plantings where the growth is lush and dense.
Infections first appear as brown blotches on the new green canes. The blotches, which may include one or more nodes, become tan coloured as infected canes mature. A typical concentric ring pattern appears in late winter. The fungus overwinters in dead leaves, mummified fruit and as black fungal bodies called sclerotia.
Numerous sclerotia form on diseased canes during the late fall and winter. It also overwinters on weeds. In the early spring under humid conditions, sclerotia produce spores which infect succulent new growth.
Infected new canes wilt and die. Dead canes are pithy and may be covered with grey mould. Botrytis also causes blossom blight and fruit rot. Examine canes in the spring to determine the level of overwintering fungus and plan a control program accordingly. Meeker and Willamette show resistance to Botrytis cane wilt.
Chemainus and Cascade Bounty are highly susceptible. Cane blight can weaken fruiting canes but this fungal disease is usually of minor importance.
It enters new canes through wounds so there is greater potential for damage where mechanical harvesters are used. Early cane blight infections may resemble spur blight. However, cane blight usually covers the whole stem and is not confined to the leaf node areas as with spur blight.
During the late summer, infected canes turn greyish and may be confused with winter injury or anthracnose.
The infected areas on the cane become flattened and may crack open. During the next season, laterals on infected canes wilt and die in warm weather. The cane blight fungus overwinters on cane stubs.
The old, dead canes can produce spores for several years. Rain and overhead irrigation will spread spores in splashing water. Infection may occur at any time during the growing season, but often occurs at harvest when canes are wounded.
Moist conditions are required for infection. Monitor new canes after harvest. Scrape away the bark above or below wounds and look for reddish streaking. During the dormant season, examine old cane stubs for grey, flattened, cracked areas, especially at catch plate height.
Apply in sufficient water for thorough coverage of all plant parts. Apply at the delayed dormant bud-bursting stage if a spray program is necessary. If leaves are out, spray only when they are dry to avoid damage.
Crown gall poses a serious threat to the production of susceptible raspberry varieties. If infected planting stock is used, yield can be significantly reduced.
The first symptoms are usually woody swellings or galls on the crowns or canes at ground level. These galls range from the size of a pea to the size of a tennis ball. Root infections may go undetected until galls are so numerous that the vigour of the plant is affected.
In some plantings where the disease has become established, the fruiting canes produce short, weak laterals. The leaves turn yellow and dry at the edges and curl up with the onset of warm weather.
Root systems from these dying plants resemble a string of beads because of the frequency of galls. The crown gall bacterium is present in some fields. It can also be introduced on infected planting stock.
Once introduced into the field, the bacteria survive almost indefinitely in decaying root galls or in alternate hosts. Wounds resulting from insect injury and cultivation or mechanical harvester damage encourage new infections. Carefully check planting stock for the presence of galls.
In existing plantings, look near the crown, for evidence of galls or dig plants up to examine roots for galls. Use certified raspberry plants. Never use plants from sources where crown gall has been reported. Do not use plants containing visible galls. Where only a few plants in a field are infected, entire plants including the complete root system should be removed carefully and burned.
Take care when removing canes and pruning because the bacteria can be spread on the pruning shears. Caution: bleach is corrosive to metal blades. Minimize root and cane injury by controlling root weevils and nematodes, avoiding close cultivation and making sure that catch plates on mechanical harvesters are working properly.
Field experience has shown that Meeker does not develop galls. Saanich and Chemainus are susceptible. Dygall is a formulation of a naturally occurring bacterium that is antagonistic i.
kills to the crown gall bacterium. It is applied to cuttings or plant roots before planting in infested soils. It is to be used by trained nursery personnel only. The fungus Botrytis causes rot and yield loss. Losses will likely occur each year if fungicides are not applied to protect the blossoms and developing fruits.
Losses are most severe when weather is wet through harvest. Infected flowers turn brown and shrivel when they dry. Under moist conditions, grey tufts of fungus can be seen on blighted blossoms. Botrytis-infected berries become shrivelled and covered with the grey tufts when the fruit matures.
Fruit can appear healthy at harvest but develop rot soon after. This is the post-harvest rot phase. The fungus primarily enters through the blossom and develops slowly until the fruit ripens. Then rot develops rapidly.
Healthy fruit next to infected berries can develop rot on the bush or after harvest. Watch for cane infections in the spring. They may be an important source of spores for flower infection. At least three sprays are recommended. Start when the blossoms first open and repeat at 7 to 10 day intervals.
Use the shorter spray interval and highest rate when disease pressure is high. To delay the development of fungicide resistance, alternate sprays from the different chemical groups.
This fungal disease occasionally infects raspberry foliage and fruit but is not commonly found in raspberry fields in BC. Some varieties, including Rudi and Cascade Bounty, are resistant to powdery mildew, while Wakefield is susceptible. The powdery mildew that infects strawberries is different than the one that infects raspberries.
Infected leaves and shoot tips are covered in a whitish gray powder. Lesions first develop on the underside of the leaves.
Infected fruit may fail to develop or be dull coloured and smaller than healthy berries. A white mat of fungus may be visible on the surface of the berries. The disease overwinters in dormant buds of stunted cane tips.
Spores are produced and infection occurs in high humidity and warm temperatures 18 to 27°C. Spores are spread by wind. Watch for the first signs of the disease on the foliage and tips of new primocanes.
Closely monitor susceptible varieties for mildew on the leaves and fruit. Select cultivars that are not susceptible to powdery mildew, improve air circulation, and remove infected primocanes that occur late in the season.
In fields with a history of this disease, apply fungicides starting in early bloom, especially during warm, humid conditions.
Apply as a preventative treatment and repeat at 7 to 14 day intervals. Do not make more than 3 applications per season. Can be applied the day of harvest; or. Do not apply within 1 day of harvest. Crumbly fruit is the most common symptom in infected red raspberries; however, crumbly fruit can be caused by factors other than RBDV infection.
Infected plants are neither bushy nor dwarfed, although stunting and shorter canes may be observed in some varieties. Some varieties may also show leaf yellowing in the spring, but most commercially recommended varieties do not.
The virus is spread by pollen. Once infected with RBDV, plants are infected for life. The plants produce infected pollen that is spread to healthy plants. Watch for leaf symptoms and crumbly fruit. Mark suspect bushes and have leaf samples tested at a laboratory. The only method of controlling RBDV is by planting resistant varieties.
Willamette, Nootka, and Chilcotin are resistant to infection. Meeker and other recommended varieties are susceptible. If growing susceptible varieties, remove fruiting laterals from first year fields before bloom to delay infection. Infected plants of some varieties may show no symptoms other than reduced yield and vigour.
Others may have leaf symptoms with mottling, yellowing, mosaic patterns, ringspots or curling. Some varieties can be severely dwarfed and may die as a result of the infection. Ringspot may also cause crumbly fruit.
The virus is spread by dagger nematodes Xiphinema americanum and possibly other related species. Weeds may be part of the cycle by supporting nematode populations and harbouring the virus.
Test soil and roots for nematodes. However, where there is a low level of infection, remove infected plants as well as the next 5 plants beyond those showing symptoms or testing positive.
Damage can be severe, especially when susceptible varieties are grown, nematode populations are high, or where soils are wet for long periods. Fruiting canes may suddenly wilt and die with the onset of warm weather.
Plants may also be stunted and low yielding. Infected roots appear rotted and brown. The outer tissue can be sloughed off and few fibrous roots are present. Black or purplish lesions may develop up the new canes from the ground level. Frequently, new shoots develop from the healthier portions of the crown.
Root rot is caused by fungi and fungi-like organisms that act alone or as a complex. Some only infect plants that have been previously weakened by stress. They all survive in the soil for years, and begin new infections by invading fine roots.
They grow through the root tissue and may grow into the plant crown and damage it. During the winter, note poorly drained areas. Watch these areas for symptoms of root rot when the weather starts to warm up.
After hot, dry periods, watch for wilting of fruiting canes. There are no completely resistant varieties. Cascade Bounty and Cascade Delight have shown good field tolerance.
Malahat and Tulameen are particularly susceptible. Research has shown that high levels of soil calcium can reduce infection and damage caused by Phytophthora root rot.
This can be achieved by applying gypsum before planting, but more research is necessary to determine the reliability and feasibility of this technique. For spring applications, apply the first spray when there is 7 cm of new growth and again 3 to 4 weeks later.
For fall applications apply when conditions favour disease development high soil moisture and cool temperatures and then repeat if necessary 3 to 4 weeks later.
Make the last fall application at least 30 days before leaf drop. Do not make more than 4 applications per year - 2 in the spring and 2 in the fall. Aliette is systemic — the product will move down from the leaves to the roots.
Do not apply within 60 days of harvest. Phostrol For spring applications, apply the first spray when there is 7 cm of new growth and again 45 to 60 days later.
For fall applications apply when conditions favour disease development high soil moisture and cool temperatures and then repeat if necessary 21 to 28 days later.
Phostrol is systemic — the product will move down from the leaves to the roots. May be applied up to the day of harvest. Apply again in the fall before November 30; or. Follow by sprinkler or drip irrigation within 24 hours to adequately distribute the product to the root zone.
Use applications at days apart in spring and applications at days apart during fall. Do not make more than 4 applications per year.
In new plantings, apply at the time of planting in a 48 cm wide band over the row or through drip irrigation. A second application may be made at least 7 days later. Can be applied twice per year. One application can be made in the fall and one application can be made in the spring.
Do not use a surfactant with this drench. Plant in autumn or spring. Before planting raspberries, give the roots a good soak in water.
You may also want to add well-rotted manure or homemade compost to the soil to aid fertility. Space canes 45cm apart with 1. Cover the roots with about 5cm of soil and firm around them gently. Canes are usually pre-pruned, ready to plant. If not, cut them down to cm. For summer-fruiting raspberries, you will need to add supporting posts or canes, which you can tie the canes to as they grow.
Put up strong 2m wooden posts at either end of your row of raspberry canes and run wires between them. Tie the canes to these as they grow. Fix a wooden T-piece to the top of each post to support bird netting over the top. In this video, Monty demonstrates how to plant bare-root raspberries, with tips on spacing and varieties to grow:.
In spring, feed raspberries with an organic, general fertiliser, and mulch around the base of the plants to keep their roots slightly moist and to suppress weeds.
Summer-fruiting raspberries fruit on one-year-old canes. Tie in new canes to support them as they develop, but prune out weak shoots. Aim for a spacing of 15cm between new canes, removing extras to avoid overcrowding.
After fruiting, cut to soil level all canes that have carried fruit, leaving the new canes to develop fruit the following year.
Autumn-fruiting raspberries flower and fruit on the current season's canes, so you can cut them down at the end of the season.
Simply cut them to the ground in winter — you can save the canes and use them pea sticks the following year. New canes will grow in spring, and they will flower and fruit within a few weeks. The shorter nature of these canes means they don't need support like summer raspberries do.
Birds such as blackbirds may take the fruit. Many gardeners are happy to share their harvest. If you don't want to, you can net the fruit, but check your netting daily, as birds, small mammals and reptiles can become trapped.
In summer, raspberries can suffer from raspberry nutrient deficiency. Feed with a high nitrogen fertiliser and mulch annually with well-rotted manure or compost to prevent the problem.
You may spot green shield bugs and other shield bugs on your raspberry plants. These are harmless bugs and will not damage your crop. Take care when picking raspberries, as the fruits are easily crushed. With the gentlest tug, ripe fruits should just tumble into your hands.
Raspberries are best picked and eaten on the same day, although you can store unwashed fruits moisture encourages grey mould in a single layer in the fridge for a few days. Most raspberries freeze well — spread them out on a dish to open-freeze, then store in a box or bag for up to two months.
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Use these tips Rasoberry grow plenty of sweet, juicy raspberries in Raspberry cultivation techniques own backyard. When you Raspgerry how to grow raspberries for yourself, techniquew possibilities are almost endless: You can make Forskolin weight loss jamraspberry liqueur, or enjoy Sports etiquette and sportsmanship for youth athletes fresh bowl gechniques raspberries and cream. Raspberries are vigorous growers and will produce runners that fill up a bed. They can get relatively large—so be sure you allow for them to grow and spread. Choose a spot in full sun where the plant will get at least six hours of direct sunlight per day and well-drained soil ; dig in some compost to give them a jump-start. Thorny raspberries can be planted around the edges of your yard and used like a fence or physical barrier.
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